Christmas pud is unthinkable without a topping. Brandy cream, butter, sauce, or ice cream even: a dollop of boozy dairy is what softens and rounds out the dark, brooding flavour of the plum pudding.

Splashing a bit of brandy cream on your pud or dolloping it on a mince pie is just what’s needed to cut through the intensity of the dried fruit. But why buy it? How hard is it to add some brandy to ...