and in its place a copper flag has been raised. When a treaty is signed this week or next, the U.S. will officially return to the Japanese the Bonin and Volcano Islands, of which Iwo Jima is one ...

It's his second visit to the new volcanic island. "I've been in rough water ... Paea races to the peak and plants a small Tongan flag on a pole in the crumbling soil, like an explorer of old.